After two full days enjoying Prague, the capital city of the Czech Republic, Rebekah and I were looking forward to a change of pace as we explored a small portion of the Czech countryside!
We boarded a train at Praha Hlavní Nádraží Train Station in Prague’s New Town, and were on our way to Český Krumlov, a small town located in the Bohemian area of the Czech Republic.
With an early departure, we wanted to make sure we had everything prepared. The day before our departure we purchased one-way tickets for 240 Crowns each, roughly $11.50. Overall, we found the rail tickets to be very reasonable as long as we did not cross country lines, which can escalate the prices.
The four hour train trip was comfortable. Rebekah LOVES trains, and this leg of the trip was a highlight as we watched the Czech countryside pass before our eyes! The only disturbance from the peaceful views was a large group of college-aged students having an overtly good time with alcohol. We changed trains once in České Budějovice, where we found the locals extremely helpful in successfully making our connection.
At 1:00 PM, we arrived in the Český Krumlov! The main attraction of Český Krumlov is the town itself, dominated by its imposing Castle. We loved exploring this UNESCO World Heritage Site! Český Krumlov is situated on a double oxbow on the Vltava River, with the Castle Town occupying the larger oxbow, and the Old Town occupying the smaller oxbow.
Once we checked into our hotel, Pension U Zámku, we headed directly to Český Krumlov Castle.
The Krumlov Castle Gardens
After a tour of the castle, we decided on a peaceful stroll along the main street all the way through the town. Beginning at the beautiful Castle Gardens, we started our downwards trek. From the high perch of the Castle, the views of the town below are outstanding! From the gardens, we passed the Baroque Theater, connected to the Castle by a multi-level bridge. Remember, if the geography of your castle does not allow you to build a fancy new theater, just build a giant bridge. The multiple layers of the bridge permitted the nobility to move easily from their living quarters, across the ravine to the theater and even the gardens beyond, while keeping the general public and the servants on other levels. It would be horrible to be forced into interacting with your guests while trying reach your private box seats in your personal theater.
The Vltava River
Entering the main castle, we strolled from one courtyard into the next, finally passing under the Round Tower, out the main gate, and across the bridge over the BEAR PITS. We continued descending the winding street, passing our hotel and crossing the sturdy wood Barber’s Bridge connecting the Castle Town with the Old Town. We paused on the bridge to watch rafts and boaters make their way down the Vltava River.
Rebekah Enjoying a Trdelnik
Continuing on, we were tempted by the sweet aroma of a Trdelnik. This Czech-style donut, baked and then rolled in sugar and nuts, is amazing! The small shop had a great marketing campaign: simply vent the sweet-smelling oven exhaust directly into the path of large numbers of visitors…Genius! Many pubs, small restaurants and shops were equally enticing!
In the middle of the smaller oxbow is the Old Town Square. The cheerful pastel-painted buildings felt welcoming. Like most small towns in the Czech Republic, a Plague Column stands as a reminder of the horrible Black Death that devastated this region in the early 1700s.
Český Krumlov Old Town Square
Prior to the outbreak of World War II, this Square was a historical setting for the growing Nazi influence. Located in the southwest corner of the Czech Republic, Český Krumlov is very close to the modern borders of Germany and Austria. In 1938, the German influence was so strong that Adolf Hitler confiscated this part of the Czech Republic, known as the Sudetenland. Nazi tanks paraded through the Old Town Square as Hitler celebrated his conquest.
Continuing along the main road, the Church of Saint Vitus stood tall on our right. Don’t miss a great viewpoint of the town on the left side of the street from a small garden directly below the Museum of Regional History.
View of Český Krumlov Castle from the Museum of Regional History
The next stop along this pleasant stroll is the Horní Bridge, marking the outer limit of the Old Town. From this area, raft, canoe and kayak rentals are available for a ride down the Vltava River. While this looked like so much fun, we unfortunately ran out of time.
Passing through the Horní Gate, we continued walking along the road, leaving the Old Town behind. The roads widened, and we found ourselves walking through a modern subdivision. With sunset approaching, we hiked to an old abandoned church at the Hill of the Cross, and were rewarded with a magnificent view of Český Krumlov below.
During the course of a leisurely 2 hour walk, Rebekah and I walked the entire length of this picturesque town. Over the next few weeks, we will share our favorite experiences from Český Krumlov in more detail.
- Thursday (6/25) – Pension U Zámku – A lovely family-run Bed & Breakfast situated directly under the Round Tower.
- Monday (6/29) – Český Krumlov Castle – Overview & Tour – The main attraction in Český Krumlov, this castle comes complete with a tower, bear pits, bridges, gardens and panoramic views.
- Wednesday (7/1) – Český Krumlov Castle – Gardens & Round Tower – Stroll through the Castle’s beautiful French and English gardens, and then climb the Tower for rewarding views of the Czech countryside.
- Friday (7/3) – View of Český Krumlov from Hill of the Cross – Hike the Hill of the Cross for an exceptional view of the Old Town and Castle Town.
- Monday (7/6) – Český Krumlov Castle – The Castle Theater – Inside Krumlov Castle, a rare Baroque theater survived constant dangers for candle lighting and indoor fireworks.
- Wednesday (7/8) – Český Krumlov After Dark – Grab a beer and enjoy a traditional Czech meal at the Gypsy Bar before a romantic stroll through the lamp-lit town at midnight.
- Friday (7/10) – People of the Czech Republic – Rebekah concludes our series of Prague and Český Krumlov by remembering the kindness of the Czech people we encountered along our journey.
Many years ago and quite by chance we stayed in Cesky Krumlov during the ‘Five-Petalled Rose Festival’. This is a fair where visitors and locals dress up in Rennaissance and Medieval clothes and send the whole town back hundreds of years with period shows, food, stalls and so on. It was the most fantastic experience.
Lyn,
We heard about the Five-Petalled Rose Festival while we were in Český Krumlov, and it sounded awesome! We had already missed it for the year (held in mid-June). You are so fortunate to have stumbled upon it! What a great experience!