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Tag: New Town

The Music of Prague

A Statue Honoring Dvořák infront of the Czech Philharmonic

A Statue Honoring Dvořák

When David and I planned our Prague trip, I knew I HAD to experience a concert featuring the Czech composer Antonín Dvořák.  He is my second favorite composer, after the German composer, Brahms.  Dvořák’s music is compelling, emotional and stirs your spirit.

Other notable composers, such as Bedřich Smetana and Leoš Janáček, were also influenced by the lands of the Czech Republic.  The Czech culture has a true love and respect for great music and great composers!  When we visited the Vyšehrad Cemetery filled with national heroes, we saw their final resting places.  After their deaths, the Czech people celebrate these composers across the country through monuments, statues and performance halls named in their honor.

Mozart also has a connection to Prague.  Prague proudly hosted the first performances of his operas Don Giovanni and La clemenza di Tito, and of his Symphony No. 38, also known as the Prague Symphony.

But before I could listen to the music of Prague, I needed tickets.  There is a great ticket office that sells tickets for all of the concerts and theater shows offered throughout the city.  Located in the Old Town Square, walk through the little alley between the buildings in front of the Týn Church, where the front doors of the church are.  Once in the alley, the ticket office is on your left.  There are a lot of options!  You can find your perfect combination of price, venue and style of music.  If in doubt, the friendly staff will help you make your selection.  Tickets are sold for the day of the event, or a few days out.

When picking our tickets, my first priority was to hear Dvořák.  We decided to use the concert as a way to visit a venue we otherwise would not have access to see.  We decided on a chamber ensemble performing at the Municipal House.   The two tickets cost 1,460 Crowns, or $70 total.  You will pay so much more for similar tickets in Vienna.  Take advantage of the prices and professionalism in Prague.

Exterior of Municipal House

Exterior of Municipal House

The Municipal House is an incredible performance hall!  Located in the New Town next to the Powder Tower.  It is easily accessible from anywhere in the city.  The Municipal House is a block away from a major subway and tram stop.  Since it was just a few blocks from our hotel, we enjoyed the short walk.  I cannot imagine a building that exemplifies Art Nouveau more than this hall.  Every single detail of the exterior and interior was just beautiful!  We arrived a little early so we were able to explore a little bit.  There is a café on the first level and a bar/pub in the basement available to all.  In order enter the concert hall, you need tickets (although tours are offered during the day).  Since the group we saw perform rented the hall, certain features were not available.  A curtain covered the pipe organ, and the stunning ceiling glass feature was not lit.  Even so, these adjustments did not take away from our overall experience.

Municipal House Performance Hall

Municipal House Performance Hall

The music was excellent!  If you are not familiar with Dvořák, I suggest looking up the following pieces so you can learn a bit about him and hear the music we experienced that night:  Symphony No. 9 in E minor, Op. 95 popularly known as The New World Symphony, Slavonic Dances, and Songs My Mother Taught Me.  The New World Symphony was written when Dvořák lived in the United States for a short time.  In this piece, you can hear him exploring a new place.  The result is exciting and mesmerizing.  But throughout the piece you will hear a theme that is filled with longing and homesickness as he misses his country and home…just beautiful.  The Slavonic Dances make you want to be in a giant dance hall laughing and twirling around until your legs can’t move.  In Songs My Mother Taught Me, you can see a mother caring for her children, singing to them, and passing on a proud musical heritage to the next generation.  The concert also featured some works by Mozart.  After the concert, we meandered back to the Astronomical Clock in the Old Town Square and grabbed a little ice cream.

Now that I have visited the Czech Republic, experiencing first-hand the generous, kind people that are deeply rooted in their cultural identity, I am able to better understand Dvořák’s homesick when he wrote the moving notes of New World Symphony.

Old Town Square – Prague

The Old Town Square is one of my favorite locations in Prague!  I could go back to this place every day.  It is a busy place where you can watch people all day and into the evening.

The Square is the center of the Old Town, one of four towns that now make up Prague.  Major landmarks within the Square include the Church of Our Lady before Týn, the Church of St. Nicholas, the Jan Hus statue and the Old Town Hall with its famous Astronomical Clock.

Jan Hus Memorial

Jan Hus Memorial

Standing prominently in the middle of the Square is a statue of Jan Hus.  He is often compared to Martin Luther, but 100 years earlier.  Hus was a priest who attempted to reform the Catholic Church, but was burned at the stake for heresy.  His bravery and willingness to stand against corruption transformed him into a Czech national hero.  You will see the image of this cherished priest around town and throughout the Czech Republic, such as in the artistic masterpiece the Slav Epic by Alfons Mucha.

Church of Our Lady before Týn

Church of Our Lady before Týn

The Church of our Lady before Týn, aka the Týn Church, is absolutely beautiful!  The spires make you feel like you are in a fairy tale.  I just loved looking up at them.  I had not seen anything like this church before in real life.  The entrance is very interesting.  It appears as if the property in front of the church was sold at some time.  As a result, you cannot see the lower part of the church.  To enter the church, a narrow walkway between the buildings leads you to the front door.

Astronomical Clock

Astronomical Clock

The most popular site in the square is the Astronomical Clock.  It is on the south side of the Town Hall Tower. The oldest parts of the clock are from 1410!  At the top of every hour, two doors open and Jesus’ twelve apostles make an appearance while a skeleton rings a bell.  The spectacle concludes with a rooster crowing.   We felt completely safe in the Czeck Republic–however, while around the Clock, be aware.  While you are looking up at the clock, packed together in a crowd, you may not pay attention to your belongings.  This is a perfect opportunity for pick pockets to work.  If you have a bag, put it on your chest and wrap your arms around the important zippers and you should be good.  Also, do not leave anything of value in your back pockets.  This is a general smart travel tip.  Now, enjoy the scene!  You can also climb the tower for a good view of the Square.

There are tons of restaurants on the Old Town Square.  Between the Old Town tower and the Church of St. Nicholas, there are food carts that smelled tasty.  We enjoyed a late dinner at Al Minuto Ristorante, an Italian restaurant that shared the wall of the Astronomical Clock.  The Staropramen beer they served was cold and refreshing and the pizza was delicious.  When the server put the pizza on the table, it was gone in a minute!

Detail of Astronomical Clock

Detail of Astronomical Clock

From the Square, you can catch a tour or book tickets for a concert.

To get to the Old Town Square from the New Town, follow the main road through the Powder Tower.  If you are coming from the Little Quarter, cross the Vltava River at the Charles Bridge and follow the main road east.  A short walk north from the Old Town Square is the Jewish Quarter, another great area to explore.

Prague City Overview

Rebekah and I have always wanted to explore Eastern Europe, and Prague was the top city on our list.  Prague, the City of a Hundred Spires.  When we found a cheap flight to Prague using frequent flyer miles, we didn’t think twice about booking the flight!

After much planning, we decided to spend four of our ten day European trip exploring the Czech Republic.  We also wanted to see the Czech Republic beyond Prague, so we limited our time in Prague so we could travel 4 hours south by train to the picturesque Czech town of Český Krumlov.  This decision left us with two full days in Prague.  Looking back, two days is theoretically enough time to catch the Prague highlights, but we moved quickly to cover so much ground.  You could have easily spent a week in Prague, including short day trips to see the surrounding countryside complete with small castle towns.

To make the most of our time, we researched the destination beforehand so we could spend our time on the ground enjoying.  Rick Steves 2014 Prague & the Czech Republic Guidebook was a most helpful resource.  I highly recommend this book for traveling in the Czech Republic.

Before we jump into what we did, let’s take a look at the city of Prague itself.

Crossing the Charles Bridge from the Little Quarter into the Old Town

Crossing the Charles Bridge from the Little Quarter into the Old Town

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